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Soups & Stews

Ginger Turmeric Red Lentil Soup

Red lentils collapse into their own creaminess in twenty-five minutes, and they need no soaking at all.

Prep
10 minutes
Cook
35 minutes
Total
45 minutes
Yield
6 servings

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A bowl of golden ginger turmeric red lentil soup swirled with coconut milk, topped with cilantro and a lime wedge

Plate · Ginger Turmeric Red Lentil Soup

First written down, Winter 2017

Red lentils behave nothing like brown or green ones. They are split and hulled, which means they have no skin to hold their shape, and in about twenty-five minutes they break down completely into a thick golden puree. People who treat them like other pulses — soaking them, or simmering them for an hour — end up with a gluey paste, while people who pull them at fifteen minutes get soup with hard grit in it. The window is narrower than it looks.

The technique that makes the difference here is blooming the spices in fat before any liquid goes in. Turmeric, cumin and coriander are fat-soluble, so thirty to sixty seconds in hot oil pulls their flavor out into the whole pot in a way that stirring them into simmering broth never will. Turmeric in particular tastes chalky and medicinal when it is not bloomed. The fresh ginger goes in with them, and a second hit of grated ginger at the end keeps its heat bright rather than cooked-out.

A tin of coconut milk gives it body and takes the edge off the turmeric, and the lime juice at the end is not optional — without acid, the whole pot tastes flat and slightly dusty. It costs very little to make, holds five days in the refrigerator, and thickens into something nearly spoonable overnight, which is easily loosened with hot water. It reads as a restorative bowl in cold weather and as a light lunch in warm.

What you need

Ingredients

Measurements

Metric converts only measures that are mathematically safe. Density-dependent cups stay as Nicole wrote them.

Scale the batch

6 servings

Aromatics and spices

  • 2 tablespoons coconut oil or neutral oil
  • 1 large yellow onion, finely diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons peeled and grated fresh ginger, divided
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground turmeric
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon ground coriander
  • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

The pot

  • 1 1/2 cups dried red lentils, rinsed until the water runs clear
  • 1 large carrot, finely diced
  • 5 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
  • One 13.5-ounce can full-fat coconut milk
  • Juice of 1 lime, plus wedges to serve
  • 1/3 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to serve

How it goes

Method

Read the whole thing once before you start. Nothing here is difficult, but the timing is unforgiving at the end.

  1. Rinse until the water runs clear

    Put the lentils in a fine sieve and rinse under cold water, rubbing them with your fingers, until the cloudy runoff turns clear — usually 30 to 45 seconds. That cloudiness is loose surface starch, and left in it makes the finished soup gummy rather than creamy. Do not soak them.

  2. Soften the onion

    Warm the oil in a heavy pot over medium heat and cook the onion with a pinch of salt for 6 to 8 minutes, until translucent and slack. Add the garlic and half the grated ginger and cook 1 minute more.

  3. Bloom the spices in the fat

    Add the turmeric, cumin, coriander, cayenne if using, and the salt. Stir constantly for 45 to 60 seconds until the mixture smells fragrant and the color deepens. These spices are fat-soluble; skip this step and the turmeric will taste chalky and medicinal all the way through.

  4. Simmer to collapse

    Add the rinsed lentils, carrot and broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer, partially cover and cook 22 to 28 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep the lentils off the bottom. They are ready when they have lost their shape entirely and the pot looks like a thick puree.

  5. Add the coconut milk off the boil

    Stir in the coconut milk and warm through for 3 to 4 minutes without letting it return to a hard boil, which can cause it to separate into oil and solids. If you want it perfectly smooth, blitz briefly with an immersion blender; leaving it as is gives a pleasant rustic texture.

  6. Finish with ginger and acid

    Off the heat, stir in the remaining grated ginger and the lime juice, then taste and add salt until the flavors come forward. Without the acid the whole pot tastes flat and dusty. Serve with cilantro, black pepper and lime wedges.

On the bench

Equipment

3 of these change the result. The rest are conveniences, with a workaround given. Nothing here is a brand recommendation — the spec is what matters.

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  1. Heavy 5- to 6-quart pot

    Lentils sink and scorch on thin metal, and once a batch catches on the bottom the burnt taste runs through the whole pot.

    What matters
    5 to 6 quarts with a genuinely thick base. Enameled cast iron is the most forgiving here.
  2. Fine-mesh sieve

    Red lentils are small enough to slip through a standard colander, and rinsing off the surface starch is what keeps the soup creamy instead of gummy.

    What matters
    Fine mesh, 7 to 8 inches.
  3. Fine rasp grater

    Ginger is fibrous. Grated on a rasp it disappears into the pot; chopped, you get stringy threads in the spoon.

    What matters
    Fine rasp grater. Grate across the grain of the root.
  4. Immersion blender

    Optional

    Useful only if you want a fully smooth texture; the lentils largely puree themselves.

    What matters
    Any stick blender.
    If you skip it
    Beat the pot vigorously with a whisk for 30 seconds, or simply leave it rustic.

The list

What to buy

The same 16 ingredients, sorted the way a store is laid out rather than the order you cook them. Tick things off as you go.

Cook's notes

What we would tell a friend

  • Red lentils only. Brown, green or French lentils hold their shape and will give you a broth with lentils in it rather than a creamy soup.
  • The mistake to avoid is stirring the ground turmeric into the simmering broth instead of blooming it in oil. The soup will taste faintly chalky and the color will be duller.
  • Light coconut milk works but the soup will be noticeably thinner. Whole-milk yogurt stirred in off the heat is a good non-coconut alternative.
  • It thickens to almost a dal overnight. Loosen with hot water or broth when reheating and re-check the salt and lime, both of which fade.

From the kitchen

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  • Oven temps are conventional, not convection.
  • Salt is fine sea salt unless stated.

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