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Baked Feta and White Bean Skillet

A block of feta bakes on top of the beans until it slumps, then gets stirred through as the sauce.

Prep
10 minutes
Cook
30 minutes
Total
40 minutes
Yield
4 servings

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A cast iron skillet of white beans and burst cherry tomatoes with a browned block of baked feta in the center, scattered with oregano

Plate · Baked Feta and White Bean Skillet

First written down, Summer 2020

Crumbled feta scattered over a dish and baked will dry out and go rubbery, because every exposed surface loses moisture at once. A whole block behaves completely differently: the outside sets and browns while the interior softens to something spreadable, and when you break it up and stir it through the beans it becomes the sauce rather than a topping. It is the same cheese, treated to respect its geometry.

Underneath, the beans are treated as an ingredient rather than a filler. Cherry tomatoes go in whole and burst in the oven, releasing enough liquid to keep everything loose, and a whole head's worth of sliced garlic goes in with them and turns sweet at 400°F. A small amount of the bean liquid from the tin is kept back deliberately — it is starchy, and it helps the feta emulsify into a sauce instead of splitting into oily curds when you stir it in.

It takes ten minutes of work and thirty in the oven, and you serve it straight from the pan with bread, or over orzo or rice if you want it to stretch further. There is around twenty-six grams of protein and eleven grams of fiber per serving from the beans and cheese alone, and no meat anywhere in it. Leftovers reheat well with a splash of water to loosen the sauce.

What you need

Ingredients

Measurements

Metric converts only measures that are mathematically safe. Density-dependent cups stay as Nicole wrote them.

Scale the batch

4 servings

  • Two 15-ounce cans cannellini or butter beans, drained, 1/4 cup of the liquid reserved
  • 1 pint cherry tomatoes (about 2 cups), left whole
  • 8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • One 7- to 8-ounce block feta in brine, drained and patted dry
  • Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon juice
  • 1/4 cup fresh dill or flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • Crusty bread or cooked orzo, to serve

How it goes

Method

Read the whole thing once before you start. Nothing here is difficult, but the timing is unforgiving at the end.

  1. Keep some of the bean liquid

    Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Drain the beans over a bowl and set aside 1/4 cup of the liquid. That liquid is starchy, and it is what lets the melted feta emulsify into a sauce rather than splitting into oil and curds.

  2. Build the base in the pan

    In an oven-safe skillet, toss the drained beans, whole cherry tomatoes and sliced garlic with the olive oil, oregano, pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Spread it level, then pour the reserved bean liquid around the edges.

  3. Set the feta on top whole

    Clear a hollow in the center and nestle the whole block of feta into it, patted dry so it browns. Do not crumble it — a block keeps its interior moist and slumps into something spreadable, while crumbles dry into rubber.

  4. Bake until the tomatoes split

    Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until the tomato skins have burst and wrinkled, the garlic is soft and golden, and the top of the feta is browned in patches with the sides slumping outward. If the top is still pale, run it under the broiler for 2 minutes.

  5. Stir the feta through off the heat

    Take the pan out and let it settle 3 minutes. Break the feta up with a spoon and stir it through the beans, pressing some tomatoes as you go. Within 30 seconds of stirring the pan liquid turns into a pale pink, creamy sauce.

  6. Brighten and serve from the pan

    Stir in the lemon zest and juice, scatter over the herbs and taste for salt — feta is salty, so it may need none. Serve straight from the skillet with bread for scooping or over orzo.

On the bench

Equipment

All 3 of these change the result. Nothing here is a brand recommendation — the spec is what matters.

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  1. Oven-safe skillet, 10 to 12 inches

    The dish goes from stovetop-adjacent prep to a 400°F oven and then to the table, so an all-metal pan does the whole job with nothing to transfer.

    What matters
    10 to 12 inches, cast iron or oven-safe stainless. Confirm the handle is metal, not silicone-wrapped.
  2. Fine rasp grater

    Lemon zest added at the end lifts the whole pan, and a rasp takes only the fragrant colored layer without the bitter pith.

    What matters
    Fine rasp grater.
  3. Wooden spoon

    Breaking up the feta and pressing the tomatoes wants a broad, blunt edge that will not shred the beans.

    What matters
    Any sturdy wooden or silicone spoon with a wide bowl.

The list

What to buy

The same 12 ingredients, sorted the way a store is laid out rather than the order you cook them. Tick things off as you go.

Cook's notes

What we would tell a friend

  • Buy feta in brine, sold as a block. Pre-crumbled feta is coated in anti-caking starch and will not melt into a sauce.
  • The mistake to avoid is draining the beans completely. Without that starchy quarter-cup the melted cheese separates into an oily layer instead of emulsifying.
  • Butter beans give a creamier, more luxurious result than cannellini if you can find them; chickpeas stay too firm for this dish.
  • In winter, use a drained 14-ounce tin of cherry tomatoes and reduce the bean liquid to 2 tablespoons, since tinned tomatoes bring their own.

From the kitchen

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Kitchen Notes

  • Oven temps are conventional, not convection.
  • Salt is fine sea salt unless stated.

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