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Skillet Suppers

Crispy Gnocchi with Burst Tomatoes and Basil

Shelf-stable gnocchi treated like a potato rather than a pasta: dry-fried until golden, never boiled.

Prep
5 minutes
Cook
20 minutes
Total
25 minutes
Yield
3 to 4 servings

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Golden pan-fried gnocchi in a skillet with split blistered cherry tomatoes, torn basil leaves and shaved parmesan

Plate · Crispy Gnocchi

First written down, Summer 2019

The instruction on the packet tells you to boil the gnocchi, and that is the single reason most people find it gluey. Vacuum-packed potato gnocchi has already been cooked once; dropping it into water hydrates the starch on the outside a second time and the pieces slump against each other into a soft mass. Nothing you do afterwards recovers a defined edge.

Treat them instead as small potatoes. Straight from the packet into a hot, generously oiled pan, spread in one layer and left undisturbed, they blister and turn crisp in about six minutes while staying pillowy inside. The tomatoes go in afterwards over higher heat until their skins split and release enough liquid to make a rough sauce in the pan — no tin, no stock, nothing added. That burst liquid is concentrated tomato and it clings to the crisp surfaces instead of softening them.

It is on the table in twenty-five minutes and costs very little, which makes it a genuinely useful weeknight recipe rather than a novelty. It does not reheat well, so cook what you plan to eat; crisp surfaces go soft in the refrigerator. Serve it in shallow bowls with the basil torn over at the very last moment.

What you need

Ingredients

Measurements

Metric converts only measures that are mathematically safe. Density-dependent cups stay as Nicole wrote them.

Scale the batch

3 to 4 servings

  • 1 pound (500 g) shelf-stable potato gnocchi, not fresh or frozen
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes (about 2 cups)
  • 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1 cup fresh basil leaves, torn at the last moment
  • 1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved

How it goes

Method

Read the whole thing once before you start. Nothing here is difficult, but the timing is unforgiving at the end.

  1. Do not boil the gnocchi

    Open the packet and separate any pieces stuck together with your fingers. They go into the pan dry, exactly as they are. Boiling rehydrates the exterior starch and is the reason boiled-then-fried gnocchi turns gluey rather than crisp.

  2. Fry in one uncrowded layer

    Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high until it shimmers. Add the gnocchi and shake once to settle them into a single layer, then leave them undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes until the undersides are deep gold. Toss and repeat on a second face, about 3 minutes more.

  3. Move them out of the pan

    Transfer the crisp gnocchi to a plate. They stay in the pan while the tomatoes cook only if you want them soft again — removing them protects the crust you just spent six minutes building.

  4. Burst the tomatoes

    Add the remaining tablespoon of oil and turn the heat to high. Add the tomatoes and let them sit for 2 minutes until the skins char and tighten, then press each one gently with the back of a spoon so it splits. Cook 3 to 4 minutes more; the released juice should reduce to a glossy, slightly syrupy pool.

  5. Add the aromatics late

    Lower the heat to medium, push the tomatoes aside and add the garlic and pepper flakes to the bare pan. Cook 45 seconds, just until fragrant. Garlic added at the start of a high-heat pan will always be bitter by the end.

  6. Combine off the heat and serve immediately

    Return the gnocchi, add the butter and salt, and toss for 30 seconds until everything is coated and the sauce turns silky. Take the pan off the heat, tear the basil over the top, shave the Parmesan on, and serve straight away while the edges are still crisp.

On the bench

Equipment

2 of these change the result. The rest are conveniences, with a workaround given. Nothing here is a brand recommendation — the spec is what matters.

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  1. 12-inch skillet with a wide flat base

    A pound of gnocchi needs to sit in one layer with room around each piece. Stacked gnocchi steam each other and never crisp.

    What matters
    12 inches measured across the top, with a flat cooking surface at least 10 inches wide. Cast iron, carbon steel or heavy stainless all work.
  2. Fish spatula or thin flexible turner

    Crisp gnocchi release from the pan cleanly only if you get a thin edge under them; a thick spoon tears the golden crust off and leaves it behind.

    What matters
    Thin, slotted, slightly flexible metal blade.
  3. Vegetable peeler or microplane

    Optional

    Parmesan shaved in wide ribbons melts unevenly across the hot dish, which gives you salty pockets rather than a uniform dusting.

    What matters
    A straight-edge peeler for ribbons, or a rasp grater for a fine snow. Either is fine — they simply give different textures.
    If you skip it
    The large holes of a box grater are perfectly adequate.

The list

What to buy

The same 9 ingredients, sorted the way a store is laid out rather than the order you cook them. Tick things off as you go.

Cook's notes

What we would tell a friend

  • This works only with shelf-stable vacuum-packed gnocchi. Fresh refrigerated gnocchi has too much moisture and frozen gnocchi releases water as it thaws in the pan; both will steam instead of crisping.
  • The mistake to avoid is stirring during the first three minutes. Every toss interrupts contact with the hot metal and resets the browning.
  • Out of cherry tomatoes, use a drained 14-ounce tin of whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand, and cook it down for 6 to 8 minutes to drive off the extra liquid.
  • To make it more substantial, add a drained tin of white beans with the butter, or wilt a few handfuls of spinach into the tomatoes before the gnocchi return.

From the kitchen

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  • Oven temps are conventional, not convection.
  • Salt is fine sea salt unless stated.

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