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Sides & Vegetables

Charred Broccolini with Lemon and Almonds

High heat, a dry pan and no water: broccolini that tastes roasted in twelve minutes on the stovetop.

Prep
5 minutes
Cook
12 minutes
Total
17 minutes
Yield
4 servings

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Charred broccolini spears on an oval platter with toasted sliced almonds, lemon zest and shaved parmesan

Plate · Charred Broccolini

First written down, Spring 2014

Broccolini is usually ruined by kindness. Blanched first, or cooked with a splash of water and a lid, it comes out olive-drab and faintly sulfurous, because sustained moist heat breaks down its chlorophyll and releases the sulfur compounds that give overcooked brassicas their smell. The vegetable is thin enough that it never needed the help.

Cooked instead in a dry, very hot pan with just enough oil to conduct heat, the stems char in patches and the florets crisp at their edges. Browning happens above about 285°F, a temperature water in the pan makes impossible, so the rule is simple: nothing wet goes in until the cooking is finished. The almonds are toasted separately in the same pan first, which both flavors the oil and guarantees they stay crunchy rather than softening in the vegetable's steam.

Twelve minutes start to finish and it holds at room temperature better than most green vegetables, which makes it a rare side dish you can cook before guests arrive. Dress it with the lemon only at the moment of serving — acid strips the green color if it sits, and a plate that looked vivid at six o'clock will look tired by half past.

What you need

Ingredients

Measurements

Metric converts only measures that are mathematically safe. Density-dependent cups stay as Nicole wrote them.

Scale the batch

4 servings

  • 1 1/2 pounds broccolini (about 2 large bunches), thick stems halved lengthwise
  • 1/3 cup sliced almonds
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • Zest and juice of 1 lemon, kept separate
  • 1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved (optional)

How it goes

Method

Read the whole thing once before you start. Nothing here is difficult, but the timing is unforgiving at the end.

  1. Trim for even thickness

    Cut the dry ends off the broccolini and split any stem thicker than a pencil lengthwise down the middle. Uneven thickness is why one spear chars while another stays raw; splitting the thick ones puts everything on the same clock.

  2. Toast the almonds dry, first

    Set a large dry skillet over medium heat and add the almonds. Shake the pan frequently for 3 to 4 minutes until they smell nutty and are patched with gold, then tip them onto a plate. They burn in the space of thirty seconds, so do not walk away.

  3. Get the pan hot before the oil

    Raise the heat to high and let the empty pan heat for a full minute, then add 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil. It should shimmer immediately. Broccolini added to a merely warm pan releases its moisture before it can brown, and from there it steams.

  4. Char without stirring

    Add the broccolini in one layer with the stems mostly in contact with the metal, sprinkle with the salt, and leave it completely alone for 3 minutes. You want dark blistered patches, not uniform color. Turn with tongs and cook 3 to 4 minutes more until the stems are crisp-tender at the base.

  5. Add garlic at the end

    Reduce the heat to medium, push the broccolini to the edges and add the remaining oil, garlic and pepper flakes to the center. Cook 45 to 60 seconds until fragrant and just barely colored, then toss through the vegetables. Garlic added earlier would be acrid.

  6. Dress at the table, not before

    Off the heat, add the lemon zest and the toasted almonds and toss. Transfer to a platter and squeeze the lemon juice over only as you carry it out, then shave the Parmesan on if using. Acid sitting on cooked greens turns them a dull khaki within minutes.

On the bench

Equipment

All 3 of these change the result. Nothing here is a brand recommendation — the spec is what matters.

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  1. Large heavy skillet, 12 inches

    A pound and a half of broccolini needs surface area to char rather than crowd. In a small pan the spears overlap, trap steam and turn army green.

    What matters
    12 inches, heavy enough to hold high heat when cold vegetables land in it. Cast iron and carbon steel are ideal.
  2. Kitchen tongs

    Broccolini needs to be turned spear by spear so the stems stay in contact with the pan. A spatula rolls them and the florets take the heat instead.

    What matters
    9 to 12 inches, scalloped tips, spring-loaded.
  3. Microplane or fine rasp grater

    Lemon zest carries the aroma without the acid, which is why it goes in early while the juice waits. A coarse grater takes bitter white pith with it.

    What matters
    Fine rasp, sharp enough to take only the colored layer.

The list

What to buy

The same 8 ingredients, sorted the way a store is laid out rather than the order you cook them. Tick things off as you go.

Cook's notes

What we would tell a friend

  • Regular broccoli works if you cut the crown into small florets and slice the stalk into 1/4-inch coins, but give it an extra 2 to 3 minutes.
  • The mistake to avoid is adding water or covering the pan to speed things up. Steam drops the surface temperature below browning range and the dish becomes boiled broccolini in oil.
  • Swap the almonds for pine nuts, hazelnuts or pistachios, or for toasted panko if there are nut allergies to work around.
  • This is good cold the next day, chopped and folded through cooked grains with a spoonful of yogurt.

From the kitchen

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Kitchen Notes

  • Oven temps are conventional, not convection.
  • Salt is fine sea salt unless stated.

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