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Sides & Vegetables

Maple Roasted Carrots with Toasted Walnuts

The maple goes on at the end, not the beginning, which is the whole difference between glazed and burnt.

Prep
10 minutes
Cook
35 minutes
Total
45 minutes
Yield
6 servings

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Deeply caramelized bias-cut carrots glossy with maple glaze, scattered with toasted walnuts and thyme on a rustic platter

Plate · Maple Roasted Carrots

First written down, Autumn 2013

Sugar burns long before a carrot is cooked. That is the flaw in nearly every maple carrot recipe that has you toss everything together and put it in the oven: the syrup scorches on the pan within fifteen minutes, turns bitter, and welds itself to the metal, while the carrots themselves are still firm. The fix is a matter of sequence rather than technique.

The carrots roast first in nothing but olive oil and salt, long enough for their own sugars to caramelize — carrots are about five percent sugar by weight and brown perfectly well unaided. Only in the last eight minutes does the maple go on, which is exactly enough time for it to reduce and cling without passing into bitterness. The walnuts are toasted separately and added off the heat, since nuts in a wet glaze go soft.

Cut on a steep bias, the carrots present far more surface to the pan than coins do, which is where the browning comes from. It is a forty-minute side dish that needs no attention for the first half hour, and it is as at home next to a Tuesday roast chicken as it is on a holiday table. It also reheats better than most vegetables, in a hot oven for five minutes rather than a microwave.

What you need

Ingredients

Measurements

Metric converts only measures that are mathematically safe. Density-dependent cups stay as Nicole wrote them.

Scale the batch

6 servings

  • 2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut on a steep bias into 2-inch pieces
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
  • 2/3 cup walnut halves, roughly broken
  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
  • Flaky salt, to finish

How it goes

Method

Read the whole thing once before you start. Nothing here is difficult, but the timing is unforgiving at the end.

  1. Cut on a steep bias

    Hold the knife at roughly a 45-degree angle to the carrot and cut 2-inch pieces, rolling the carrot a quarter turn between cuts. The angled faces give each piece two broad flat surfaces to brown against the pan, which coins simply do not have.

  2. Roast in oil alone

    Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Toss the carrots with the olive oil, salt and pepper directly on a large rimmed baking sheet and spread them in one layer, cut faces down where you can. Roast 25 minutes without stirring, until the undersides are deeply browned.

  3. Toast the walnuts while they roast

    Spread the walnuts on a small tray and toast in the same oven for 6 to 8 minutes, until they smell fragrant and the interiors have gone from pale to tan. Set aside off the heat. Toasting is what removes their raw, faintly tannic edge.

  4. Glaze only in the last stretch

    Whisk the maple syrup and vinegar together. Pull the pan out, scatter the butter over the carrots, pour on the maple mixture and toss quickly to coat. Return to the oven for 6 to 8 minutes only. Any longer and the sugar crosses from caramelized into scorched.

  5. Check for the right gloss

    The glaze is ready when it coats the carrots in a thin syrup that clings rather than pooling on the pan, and a knife slips through the thickest piece with slight resistance. If it looks watery, give it 2 more minutes; if it smells sharp or acrid, take it out at once.

  6. Finish off the heat

    Tip the carrots and all the pan glaze onto a warm platter, scatter over the toasted walnuts, thyme and a pinch of flaky salt, and serve. The nuts go on last so they stay crunchy against the soft carrot.

On the bench

Equipment

2 of these change the result. The rest are conveniences, with a workaround given. Nothing here is a brand recommendation — the spec is what matters.

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  1. Large rimmed baking sheet

    Carrots release a surprising amount of water. Crowded on a small pan they braise in it and never brown, and browning is where the flavor of this dish comes from.

    What matters
    Half-sheet, 13x18 inches, heavy aluminum. Light-colored pans brown more gently than dark nonstick, which is an advantage once sugar is involved.
  2. Sharp chef's knife

    A steep bias cut through a dense raw carrot needs a knife that goes where you aim it. A dull blade slips and gives you uneven pieces that cook at different rates.

    What matters
    8-inch blade, kept sharp. Test it on a tomato skin before you start.
  3. Small sheet pan or cake tin for the nuts

    Optional

    The walnuts need to come out of the oven roughly ten minutes before the carrots do, so they cannot share the same tray.

    What matters
    Any small oven-safe tray or tin.
    If you skip it
    Toast the walnuts in a dry skillet on the stovetop over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, shaking often.

The list

What to buy

The same 10 ingredients, sorted the way a store is laid out rather than the order you cook them. Tick things off as you go.

Cook's notes

What we would tell a friend

  • Use real maple syrup. Pancake syrup is mostly corn syrup with flavoring; it scorches faster and tastes flatly sweet with none of maple's caramel notes.
  • The mistake to avoid is adding the syrup at the start. It will be black and bitter on the pan by the time the carrots are tender, and no amount of scraping recovers it.
  • Pecans, hazelnuts or pumpkin seeds all substitute directly for the walnuts; pumpkin seeds need only 4 minutes of toasting.
  • Parsnips can replace up to half the carrots, but they cook a little faster, so cut them slightly thicker to keep everything on the same schedule.

From the kitchen

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Kitchen Notes

  • Oven temps are conventional, not convection.
  • Salt is fine sea salt unless stated.

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